Student Name: Seth Benjamin
Student Number: 21173876
University of West London
Corse: BA Graphic Design (Hons)
Module: Ideas and Perspectives: AD50178E
Module Leader: Gerda Mackenzie
Date
of Submission: 7/1/2016
Word Count: 3046
Deconstruction Of Beauty
Are Women Represented
Fairly In Advertisements Within The Sun?
List of
illustrations
Figure 1. No More Page 3 Sticks
Pictures Of Men And Women In The Sun Side By Side With Revealing Results (02/Dec/2014 11:20 GMT),
Digital Photography
Figure 2
McBean,
AMB, Peggy Ashcroft as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra., 1953, Photography
Figure 3
ManRay,
MR. Le Violon dÕIngres, 1924, Gelatin silver print, 29.6 x 22.7
cm, Man Ray Trust ARS-ADAGP
Figure 4
Hans, MH. Vanity. 1485, Oil on wood. 22 x 14 cm, MusŽe des
Beaux-Arts, Strasbourg
Figure 5
Del Monte ketchup ad. (1953).
Figure 6
Kruger, BK. Untitled (I
shop therefore I am). (1987). Photographic silkscreen on vinyl, 111 x
113 inches. Courtesy Mary Boone Gallery, New York
Figure 7
Horst, HPH. Round the Clock, New York. 1986. Gelatin
Silver Print
16
× 20 in.
Figure 8
Richardson, AR. Richardson
Magazine. A4. 2003.
Figure 9
Newton, HN Vogue Helmut Newton 1977. 1977.
Figure 10
Penn, IP. The 1940s, Dorian Leigh, 1949. 1949. Gelatine silver print, 41.9 X 32.8 cm, Gruber Collection
Figure 11-12
Newton, HN. They Are xoming
1981. 1981, Gelatine sliver print,
22.6 x 22.8 cm
Figure 13
Earlam, KE. 'Vicky Queen of The
JungleÕ, 2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec,
Front page.
Figure 14
Holmwood, LH. ÔExclusive
Interview RITAÕ, 2015, The Sun: 9th
and Dec, Front page
Figure 15
Payne,
WP. ÔX Factor Louisa, 2015, The Sun: 15th
and Dec, Front page
Figure 16
Dirvanauskas, GD. ÔMyleeneÕs
looking spot onÕ, 2015, The Sun: 7th
and Dec, Page 3
Figure 17
Gardner, LG. ÔTinder booby trapsÕ,
2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page 3
Figure 18
Earlam, KE. ÔPool The Other One, 2015,The Sun: 9th and Dec, Page 3
Figure 19
Dyson, ED. ÔSecret To Looking HotÕ,
2015, The Sun: 15th and Dec, Page 3
Figure 20
Chilcoot, JC. ÔGet uour fest
dress onÕ, 2015, The Sun: 7th and
Dec, Page 36
Figure 21
Chilcoot, JC. ÔGet Kitted sprout..at supermarketÕ, 2015,The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page 36
Figure 22
Pearce, DP. ÔOther ModelÕs Verdict
On Shapewear UndiesÕ, 2015, The Sun: 15th
and Dec, Page 36
Figure 23
Advertisement . ÔShop Shockingly
SexyÕ, 2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page
42
Summary
In
this essay I am aim to discover if the advertisements found in The Sun
newspaper depicts women in a reasonable way. I will be looking into the history
surrounding The Sun and the public controversy the page three
girls. I plan to use philosophical theory mainly the concepts of Roland Barthes
to help find out why The Sun used the page three girls, and if the
advertising in The Sun treat women or if they treat their models in the
same way as the page three girls. I believe that by comparing the relationship
between fashion photography and boudoir photography, and by comparing my
findings to The SunÕs page three girls and the advertisements
represented in it, I might be able to answer this question. I found during this
essay that The Sun objectives women terribly, however the advertisements found
within it do not; the advertisers seem to give women a fairly realistic and
reasonable portrayal.
Essay
The infamous Page 3 was first published in
17/Nov/1970 and ran until 22/Jan/2015. Throughout itÕs life it brought much
controversy to the subject of womenÕs place in the media and had spread many
negative connotations and stereotypes of the female gender [1/1.5]. Holmes, the leader in
the campaign No More Page 3, said
that Òwomen do things, say things, think things, and they're not just there to
be looked atÓ [2]. In the
campaign No More Page 3 the group did
an experiment to show what six months of The
Sun would looked like when comparing how men are women are represented. The
results were quite astonishing and the portrayals of men and women were
drastically different. Hardie said that [in] Ôthe men's side I see real life,Õ
and [in] Ô the women's side, it doesn't seem real. It's all manufactured.Õ[3/3.5] [Figure 1]. These portrayals of women, which The Sun publishes, are the same that can
be seen thought advertising and art history. John BergerÕs Ways of Seeing sums up the usage of women rather well. ÔTo be born
woman has to be born, within an allotted and confined space, into the keeping
of menÕ [4]. As such the way
a woman is portrayed comes down to the way their body is manipulated or
posed within a confined space. ItÕs in the same class as the rule of thirds and
maybe even the use of the golden ratio. It is definitely true that The Sun does represent women in a
objectifying way, however the reason they would keep Page 3 for so long despite much controversy is rather peculiar.
Even with an increase in sales Page 3 still
seems unwarranted and a risky strategic move. Time has proven that the sales
were unaffected by Page 3. ÔThe SunÕs dropping of Page 3 at the end of January
does not seem to have made any discernible difference to its circulation.Õ [5] So my conclusion is that
the tabloid feared a loss in sales if they dropped Page 3 or that the personal philosophy of The Sun is misguided and may have an improper view on the
objectification of the female form. Both ideas seem very likely. Despite The Sun clothing the women on Page 3, I believe it does nothing to
change the objectification, sexualization, and stereotyping of women. This is
something I believe can be fully avoided at least to a certain degree if they
were to stop using sexually provocative imagery of women. They would in turn
also limit the amount they objectify women, although I donÕt believe they can
completely stop stereotyping as ÔclichŽs are the fastest way to express
somethingÕ [6] which is
essential in the media. This would also hold true to advertising within The Sun, however there will be a large
difference in the way things are portrayed especially in adverts Òwithin an
allotted and confined spaceÓ [4].
To further highlight, help
distinguish and give reason to why advertisements might use sexual or
stereotypical imagery despite the negative repercussions, we need to have a
look into philosophy and the psychology of the human mind. I believe the best
place to start would be the works of Roland Barthes in his book Image Music Text. He proposes the idea
that a character can only be conveyed through a narrative or animated sequence.
He suggests that it is the evidence of movement that allows us to distinguish a
character. This means that a single image of a person will never be able to
convey a narrative on its own, as an unmoving person is inanimate. Therefore it
has as much of a connotation to death as it does character. ÔIs the definition
of the character according to participation in a sphere of actionsÕ [7] A good example of this
quote are the photographs of Angus McBean [8]. The photograph in [Figure 2] is straight from a theatre production and
truly connotes a lot about whatÕs going on within the scene. It even conveys
the archetypes of the characters being portrayed; yet it doesnÕt show their
character, as without a narrative we know nothing about them. In conclusion a
single photo wouldnÕt be able to convey any form of character, making a
stand-alone image very ineffective for many types of advertising.
Barthes also makes a very
fascinating point by raising the idea that all posed images have a basic
denotation and a hidden connotation. The model or the photographer would have
put their own message within the photo through the body posture of the model or
the directions given by the photographer. ÔThe reader receives as a simple
denotation what is in actual fact a double structure – denoted-connoted.Õ[7]. If we consider
this statement to be justified then it has a massive implication on how anyone
is represented in a posed image. This is because the concept of a
Ôdenotation-connotationÕ [7] within a posed
image comes with the underlying implication of objectification. [9] This quote from This Means This, This Means That is a
nice way of expressing the theory of their being a form of objectification in
all posed images. ÔClearly there is something of an art to reading faces, but
equally there is also something of an art to reading objects.Õ[10]. An amazing example of these theories surrounding the idea of the visual
pose can be seen in the photographic works of ManRay [11] [12] [Figure 3]. This image
denotes a woman with the marks of a violin on her back, although it connotes
and personifies the objectification of women as she has been put on display
like an object and is being compared to a musical instrument; something that
purely exists to be played. These themes can be seen in most of ManRayÕs works.
Such subjects can also be seen in many historical paintings. ÔA naked body has
to be seen as an object to become a nudeÉNakedness reveals itself. Nudity is
placed on displayÕ [4]
[Figure 4] ÔThe real function of the mirror was otherwise. It was to make the woman
connive in treating herself as, first and foremost, a sightÕ [4]. So in conclusion it is impossible for anyone
to pose another person easily if itÕs a nude image without objectify or
sexualizing them. This is why many media outlets may not see it as immoral to
objectify women in a certain way.
Another large
point that Barthes brings up is that stereotypes are just the equivalent of
modern-day myths; a result of basic semiotics and an unqualified observer.
ÔContemporary myth is discontinued. It is no longer expressed in long fixed
narratives but only in ÔdiscourseÕ. At most it is a phraseology, a corpus of
phrases (of stereotypes).Õ [7]
This
theory is also supported in a few other graphic design based books. ÔClichŽs
survive long after the conditions that produce them are deadÕ [6] ÔAlthough irritating, the
clichŽ is probably better than anything else you can think of to replace itÕ [6] ÔStereotypes are sometimes
helpful to us. They can give us a short-cut to understanding a certain thing or
situation.Õ[10] So in a way
these books point to stereotypes being a form of condensed linguistics, and
they are something that can be extremely helpful in conveying an idea in short
amount of time. This makes stereotypes an invaluable tool for all forms of
media to exploit; however stereotypes do have one drawback. ItÕs the very
origin of any stereotype being the idea of generalization of semiotics that
will always have at least one offence connotation. This also makes stereotypes
very misleading and somewhat impractical. ÔClichŽs are inadequate since they do
no more than Ôinspire us to believe that they adequately describe a situation
while theyÕre merely grazing its surfaceÕ. [6] A good visual reposition of this idea is shown in Figure 5. This is the best example when trying to show how
easy stereotypes can be conveyed and at the same time demonstrates how truly
sexists and disrespectful they can be. I believe that stereotypes are used to
maximize the chances of an advertisement getting itÕs message across. However,
much like clichŽs, they have been used to the point where they mainly now gain
a negative reaction from the reader. Another thing to keep in mind is that a
stereotypeÕs longevity is partly perpetuated by the media, which helps in the
production of new stereotypes.
The last and
maybe most important of Barthes theories demonstrates the neutralization of the
visual message though the use of text. ItÕs a simple idea that changes the
meaning of any given image entirely and gives a new prospective on all forms of
media. ÔFormerly, the image illustrated the text (made It clearer); today the
text loads the image, burdening it with a culture, a moral, an imagination.Õ [9] This concept is put better context in the
book This Means This, This Means That. ÔImages on their own are often so open
to interruptionÉ. we might need to supplement them with wordsÕ [10]. Another point Barthes
makes about the use of text in the image is that much like the pose, text and
images have a symbiotic relationship where the effect one has on the other is
subject to space and size. ÔSecondly the effect of connotation probably differs
according to the way in which the text is presentedÉ headline and article are
palpably separate from the image, the former by its emphasis, the latter by its
distance; the first because it breaks the other because its distance the
content of the image.Õ [9] This is a very
important point to consider as it has a drastic effect on how we view adverts
and how we should view The Sun. The
last point Barthes makes about text is that text has the ability to rewrite the
denotation of the image entirely. ÔThe text most often simply amplifying a set
of connotations already given in the photograph. Sometimes, however, the text
produces (invents) an entirely new signified which is retroactively projected
into the image, so much to appear denoted there.Õ [9]. The best visual representation of the relationship between image and
text comes from the work of Barbara Kruger [13] [Figure 6]. This is good evidence of the fact that with a
small amount of text, the entire meaning of an image changes. Therefore text
has a very large role in how advertisers and tabloids represent women
especially within the confines of a small-allotted space.
The last
concept I would like to put forward is the idea of the seductive gesture and
itÕs link to advertising and boudoir photography. The first thing we should
realize about the relationship between the seductive gesture and advertising is
that all advertisers are very aware about how they use the female body to their
advantage. If they show too much of the female figure, they run the risk of overshadowing
the original message of the advert, as well as risking their companyÕs good
name through negative assertion of the objectification of women. If they show
too little of the model, having her in the advertisement may become pointless
as the entire point of her is to attract the gaze of the viewer. ÔThough they
looked sexy, their erotic appeal was carefully veiled in order not to interfere
with the commercials messageÕ [14],
This
idea can be easily seen in the works of Horst P. Horst, who was a famous
fashion photographer for the well-known
Vogue fashion and lifestyle magazine. [Figure 7] [15]. Such a brilliant piece of seductive, risquŽ and
yet clothed imagery could only come from a photographer that truly knows how to
present the female form in all its provocative glory. Another thing that holds
a lot of influence on advertisersÕ choices is the idea of the sexual taboo and
censorship. ÔGraphic resonations of sexual acts are taboo in some cultures and
not in others (although sex itself it always taboo to some extent).Õ[14] This leads to most graphic artist making
creative ways to censor the feminine body to keep the standards they are
expected to live up to. A nice example is the image titled Richardson Magazine A4 [Figure
8].
By creatively using the name of the magazine, the designer was able to give a
somewhat sexual allure whilst preserving the integrity of the magazine. These
prerogative and sexual gestures are perfectly outlined in the book The Art of Boudoir Photography, Ô1.
Brush your hair out of your eyesÉ 2.Shake out your hairÉ 3. Jump, run, skip or
bounceÉ 4.Play with your clothingÉ 5. Shake itÉ 6. Twirl aroundÉ 7. Ask your
subject to vocalizeÉ 8. Any action involving womenÕs shoes is generally a good
ideaÉ 9. Run your hands along your bodyÉ 10. Close your eyes andÉÕ[16]. If we compare these to most photos from the
genre of fashion photography we should find many similarities. To put this to
the test letÕs look at one photo by fashion photographer Helmut Newton and one
by fashion photographer Irving Penn. When we look at Vogue Helmut Newton, 1977
we can clearly see a few of the clichŽs of boudoir photography displayed by the
model. The model is running her hands along her chest and her eyes are looking
way from the camera; both of these actions are staples of the genre. A very
high contrast coupled with hard a point of focus helps outline her feminine
features and keep the viewer's attention on her despite the dog and blurred
foreground [Figure 9]. The 1940s, Dorian Leigh, 1949 is a much
more traditional example of fashion photography. The use of a high contrast and
black background exaggerates the models outline and keep the viewerÕs focus on
her figure. Yet we can also see some the same tropes that we saw in PennÕs
photograph. We see her eyes turned down and her left hand on her hip, which
helps to keep the viewerÕs focus on the clothing whilst using the modelÕs
figure to its fullest. The added action of smoking helps to give movement and
life to the woman. However no matter how a photographer portrays their subject,
they will always be objectified in fashion photography as people in this genre
are merely props or, at the very most, stand-ins for manikins [Figure 10]. The best photographs
that noticeably show the thin veil between fashion and boudoir photography are
two photographs by Helmut Newton [figure
11-12]. One of the most interesting things about these images is that they
show how women can still be objectified even if they are fully clothed. It
feels as if we are looking from the prospective of a person who is undressing
these women with his eyes. Fashion photography will always objectify women and
its relation to boudoir photography is too substantial to ignore, but
thankfully most advertisers know how to keep a bit of integrity in their work.
Now let us
compare the concepts previously analysed with The SunÕs average front page and Page 3. [Figure 14]
[Figure 15] [Figure 16]. All the images seen in these illustrations hold
traits that are related to the seductive gesture. This coupled with large size
of the font used show that these images are purely used to draw attention to
the front page of The Sun. In a way
these women seen on the front cover are just props to draw the viewerÕs gaze.
Another thing to note is out of the four issues of The Sun that I collected, only one of them didnÕt have a woman
depicted on the front cover. I also find it noteworthy that all of these
newspapers managed to objectify women in one form or another on Page 3. They either used offensive
titles and articles, or had the models pose provocatively with their hand on
their head or by their side to exaggerate their feminine features. [Figure 16] [Figure 17] [Figure 18] [Figure 19]. The fashion
advertising seen in The Sun is a lot
less sexualized than I was expecting; almost no clichŽs of boudoir photography
were used and all the women seen are represented in a non-objectified way (this
includes the models wearing only underwear). [Figure 20] [Figure 21] [Figure 22]. Out of the four issues
of The Sun there were only 164
advertisements, of which only 36 had representations of women in them. That is
roughly 21% and I only found one image within these that I can truly say
objectified, stereotyped and sexualized women [Figure 23]. The irony is that itÕs the one kind of advert that I believe should
have some right to be sexualizing, stereotyping, and objectifying women. This
is because as a lingerie advert not only should it contain both elements of
fashion and boudoir photography, but it also uses text and stereotypes to its
advantage. ItÕs an advert that knows what it is trying to be, who its
demographic is and where it is going to be placed. Therefore I feel that it is
completely justified in objectifying women as anything that has a direct
correlation to sex will always objectify people.
In conclusion I
believe that women are horribly objectified, sexualized and stereotyped within The SunÕs Page 3 and front cover.
However due to the evidence I have gathered I feel that the advertising in The Sun is justified where there is
use of the sexual gesture and manipulation of the reader. This is mainly
because there is such a small amount that it shouldnÕt cause much offence,
especially as its use is necessary for the kind of company that it is
representing. My view towards advertising within tabloids has been largely
changed due to the advertisers nor the large conglomerates being responsible
for objectifying women. It is the readers that need to take control of our own
perceptions and whether we should agree with or condemn controversial
subjects. Roland Barthes said Ôwe
are now no longer beginning to let ourselves be fooled no longer by
arrogant antiphrastically recriminations of good society in favour of the
very thing it sets aside, ignores, smothers, or destroys; we know that to give
writing its future, it is necessary to overthrow the myth: the birth of the
reader must be at the cost of the death of the Author.Õ[7]. Truly I believe this is the right direction in which our society
should progress.
Illustrations
Figure 1. No More Page 3 Sticks
Pictures Of Men And Women In The Sun Side By Side With Revealing Results (02/Dec/2014 11:20 GMT),
Digital Photography
Unknown (02/Dec/2014 11:20 GMT) No More Page 3 Sticks Pictures Of Men And Women In The Sun Side By Side
With Revealing Results. Available At: https://www.pinterest.com (Accessed: /9/Dec/2015).
Figure 2
McBean,
AMB, Peggy Ashcroft as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra., 1953, Photography
McBean, AMB. (1953) Peggy
Ashcroft as Cleopatra in Antony and Cleopatra. 181A High Holborn London
WC1V 7QX: Thames & Hudson.
Figure 3
ManRay,
MR. Le Violon dÕIngres, 1924, Gelatin silver print, 29.6 x 22.7
cm, Man Ray Trust ARS-ADAGP
ManRay,
MR. (1924) Le Violon dÕIngres. West Germany Hauptstr.9,1000 Berlin 62: Taco.
Figure 4
Hans, MH. Vanity. 1485, Oil on wood. 22 x 14 cm, MusŽe des
Beaux-Arts, Strasbourg
Hans, MH. (1485) Vanity [Oil on wood].
MusŽe des Beaux-Arts, Strasbourg.
Figure 5
Del Monte ketchup ad. (1953).
Unknown (1953) Del Monte ketchup ad. http://www.purpleclover.com:
http://www.purpleclover.com/ entertainment/694-sexist-ads/item/ketchup/
(14 Dec/2015/ downloaded: 14/Dec/2015).
Figure 6
Kruger, BK. Untitled (I
shop therefore I am). (1987). Photographic silkscreen on vinyl, 111 x
113 inches. Courtesy Mary Boone Gallery, New York
Kruger, BK. (1987) Untitled (I shop therefore I am).
300 Park Avenue South New York,NY 10010: Rizzoil International Publications
Inc.
Figure 7
Horst, HPH. Round the Clock, New York. 1986. Gelatin
Silver Print
16
× 20 in.
Horst, HPH. (1986) Round
the Clock,
New
York. Taschen America, 6671 Sunset Boulevard,
Suite 1508, Los Angeles, CA 90028,USA: TASCHEN.
Figure 8
Richardson, AR. Richardson
Magazine. A4. 2003.
Richardson, AR. (2003) Richardson
Magazine A4. 361-373, City Road, London, EC1V 1LR: Laurence King Publishing
Ltd.
Figure 9
Newton, HN Vogue Helmut Newton 1977. 1977.
Ne
wton, HN (1977) Vogue Helmut Newton 1977. Available at:
http://www.spidersweb.pl/2013/04/helmut-newtor.html (10/Dec/2015).
Figure 10
Penn, IP. The 1940s, Dorian Leigh, 1949. 1949. Gelatine silver print, 41.9 X 32.8 cm, Gruber Collection
Penn, IP. (1949)
The 1940s, Dorian Leigh, 1949. Taschen America, 6671
Sunset Boulevard, Suite 1508, Los Angeles, CA 90028,USA: TASCHEN.
Figure 11-12
Newton, HN. They Are xoming
1981. 1981, Gelatine sliver print,
22.6 x 22.8 cm
Newton, HN. (1981) They Are xoming 1981.
Taschen America, 6671 Sunset Boulevard, Suite 1508, Los Angeles, CA 90028,USA:
TASCHEN.
Figure 13
Earlam, KE. 'Vicky Queen of The
JungleÕ, 2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec,
Front page.
Earla
m, KE. (2015) 'Vicky Queen of The
JungleÕ, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Front
page.
Figure 14
Holmwood, LH. ÔExclusive
Interview RITAÕ, 2015, The Sun: 9th
and Dec, Front page
Holmwood, LH. (2015) ÔExclusive
Interview RITAÕ, The Sun: 9th and Dec,
Front page
Figure 15
Payne,
WP. ÔX Factor Louisa, 2015, The Sun:
15th and Dec, Front page
Payne,
WP. (2015) ÔX Factor Louisa, The SunÕ:
15th and Dec, Front page
Figure 16
Dirvanauskas, GD. ÔMyleeneÕs
looking spot onÕ, 2015, The Sun: 7th
and Dec, Page 3
Dirvanauskas, GD. (2015) ÔMyleeneÕs
looking spot onÕ, The Sun: 7th and
Dec, Page 3
Figure 17
Gardner, LG. ÔTinder booby trapsÕ,
2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page 3
Gardner, LG. (2015) ÔTinder booby
trapsÕ, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page 3
Figure 18
Earlam, KE. ÔPool The Other One, 2015,The Sun: 9th and Dec, Page 3
Earlam, KE. (2015) ÔPool The
Other One, The Sun: 9th and Dec, Page
3
Figure 19
Dyson, ED. ÔSecret To Looking
HotÕ, 2015, The Sun: 15th and Dec, Page
3
Dyson, ED. (2015) ÔSecret To Looking HotÕ, The Sun: 15th and Dec, Page 3
Figure 20
Chilcoot, JC. ÔGet uour fest
dress onÕ, 2015, The Sun: 7th and
Dec, Page 36
Chilcoot, JC. (2015) ÔGet uour
fest dress onÕ, The Sun: 7th and Dec,
Page 36
Figure 21
Chilcoot, JC. ÔGet Kitted sprout..at supermarketÕ, 2015,The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page 36
Chilcoot, JC. (2015) ÔGet Kitted sprout..at
supermarketÕ, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page
36
Figure 22
Pearce, DP. ÔOther ModelÕs Verdict
On Shapewear UndiesÕ, 2015, The Sun: 15th
and Dec, Page 36
Pearce, DP. (2015) ÔOther ModelÕs
Verdict On Shapewear UndiesÕ, The Sun:
15th and Dec, Page 36
Figure 23
Advertisement . ÔShop Shockingly
SexyÕ, 2015, The Sun: 8th and Dec, Page
42
Advertisement . (2015) ÔShop
Shockingly SexyÕ, The Sun: 8th and
Dec, Page 42
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(Accessed: 9/Dec/2015)